FOOT MEASUREMENT:
The bespoke shoemaker must have accurate measurements to work from, specifically the joint, the instep, the long heel line, the short heel line, the ankle, the calf, and the under knee measurements.
These measurements may be supplemented by others as required, and there is no limit to the number that may be taken. The only consideration is whether or not they are really necessary, and if there are any features that need separate measurements taken because of particular peculiarities.
Orthopaedic shoemakers use a plaster cast of the foot in question to refresh their memories of the individual characteristics that have to be taken into account once the client has gone, but this is not essential if you have taken the measurements accurately. Certainly, if desired, use a plaster cast.
If the customer wears an orthotic device, always include this in any measurements. Never guess, and if the device is not available, don’t do the measuring. It will always cause problems.
Tools required; Narrow tape measure, firm paper, size-stick (optional), flat board to stand on and a sharp pencil. Always use a sharp pencil and a thin tape measure, as a wide tape measure does not bend as easily to the shape of the foot.Be as accurate as possible, it will save time.
Have the customer stand with their weight evenly balanced between both feet with no socks or stockings being worn, as these can compress the foot. Pull clothing away so no aspect of the foot is hidden.
While drawing the foot outline hold the pencil vertical. Always reach right around the heel as far as is comfortable, and then draw from this position towards yourself, and then across the front of the foot.
Now go to the starting point and draw back down towards yourself again on the other side of the foot, to join up with the first line.
It is easier to draw towards your body than away from it. Reaching around the foot at the start will avoid drawing a peak behind the heel which happens if you start the drawing behind the heel. This peak, caused by the pencil being held innacurately here, will give an inaccurate foot length measurement. Accuracy is necessary when using the geometric pattern cutting method, and also for checking the last against the foot shape.
A second line is now made which shows where the actual tread line of the foot is situated. Reach around the back of the foot making sure that the pencil is positioned straight out at right angles from the foot and held at an angle of about 60 degrees to the ground...