George Koleff was a Bulgarian Master Shoemaker who I met in Adelaide, South Australia where he had been living and teaching for some years.
It was through working with George that I became a teacher. He was a man who was free with his knowledge and his legacy lives on.
Part A... General Information
Part B... Shoe Designs
Part C... Boot Designs
Part D... Alternative Designing Methods
Part E... Additional Information
This text book teaches the Geometric Method of Pattern Cutting which is based on foot measurements, not last measurements. Pattern Cutting incorporates designing too, so if you can imagine a design, then learning to cut patterns will help you move from there to the reality of a pair of finished shoes.
Mouse over the cover image to see the contents, click the menu to hide it again.
This was George's major work, one that he spent many years perfecting. It is a testament to him that the knowledge is passed on and used by so many shoemakers world wide.
Included with each book is a plastic square with all the angles you need already marked for you.
It is ideally suited to a handmaking system because the measurements are taken from measuring an individual's feet.
This method is a really simple one once you follow it, and can be used instantly by anyone. It differs from the covered-last method of pattern cutting in that you build up the last after you have done the patterns.
I taught using this method for some years, and am satisfied that it is a useful, and accurate system, and can recommend it to anyone.
At left is a collage of patterns taken from the Shoe and Boot Designing Manual.
George had learned a method of pattern cutting in Europe, that uses a geometric method for finding the angles and measurements required. This system seems odd at first glance, but in practice, works remarkably well.
The formulae for doing this is straightforward and if you go step by step everything falls into place.
This system was first invented and published in 1879 by Robert Knofel, and by using this book, you too can make a very large variety of footwear.
A plastic square is included in the book.
Shoe and Boot Designing Manual - George Koleff
For a copy of the Shoe and Boot Designing Manual, please follow the prompts below.
Price for Shoe and Boot Design Manual is $82.00 AUD + postage.
Price for Shoe and Boot Design plus Bespoke Shoemaking is $210.90 AUD + postage.
Last Designing and Making Manual, and DVD. - by George Koleff
This book of George's uses the same geometric method as the shoe designing book to give you the measurements and angles that you will need to create your very own set of bespoke lasts.
Last making is not a necessary part of shoemaking, but the satisfaction of making your own lasts to complete a project is something special.
A plastic square is included in the book, this has the necessary angles that are used to make the geometric design for creating your lasts. Also included is a DVD of George giving advice on the making of the lasts.
After measuring the foot, you are taken through the process of making a pair of lasts using basic tools.
Like George's other books it has lots of diagrams, and doesn't assume any prior knowledge.
Part A... Last Designing
Tools and Aids
Measurements and Information Needed for Designing
Shoe and Last Sizes
Paris Point System
English Measuring System
Foot Length and Last Length
Width or Volume of the Last
Measurement for Insole Designing
Formulae for Calculating Measurements for Last Making
Designing the Insole
Designing the insole for Men using Foot Outlne
Designing the insole for Women using a Foot Outline
Designing the insole for Child's Last using a Foot Outline
Designing the Insole for Men's Last Geometrically without a Foot Outline
Designing the Profile for Man's Last using the First Method
Constructing the back section of the Last
Constructing the front part of the Last Profile
Designing the Back View of a Man's Last
Designing the Profile for a Man's Last using the Second Method
Plus a DVD by George Koleff which helps to understand his methods,
And a square, required for the calculations is included.
For a copy of Last Designing and Making Manual, please follow the prompts below.
Price for Last Designing and Making Manual with DVD is $60.00 AUD + postage.
How To Make Ugg Boots, The Manual by George Koleff.
This style of sheepskin boot has been popular in Australia for a very long time and has now become a fashion item in many countries overseas.
Not only is it fashionable, but in cold weather it is a very warm casual item of footwear. It is not difficult to make, even a sewing machine is not necessary, and it can be designed with many different aspects pleasing to the individual.
It lends itself to applications of bright colours and textures, as features, so the plain original style is not one that has to be adhered to.
Make a pair for every member of the family, they will all get a thrill, and be able to put them to practical use.
Tools and Equipment
Foot Drawing and Measurement
Designing the Ugg Boot
Cutting the Sheep Skin
Sewing the Back and Front Seams
Preparing the Insole
Making a Sanding and Polishing Wheel
Price of "How To Make Ugg Boots": $ 36.00 AUD + postage